Perennial Herbs
Costmary leaves are strong-tasting and should be used with caution. Recipes call, for instance, for only a single leaf in a meat or vegetable stew, and for only one in chicken fricassee. One feminine suggestion of putting a leaf of costmary into an Old-fashioned Cocktail provokes violent masculine shudders, but less controversial is its use in lemonade.

Damask Rose (Rosa damascena) Rose Family (Rosaceae)

Roses in the herb garden are almost a necessity-but not the fine, showy hybrid tea roses or the hybrid perpetuals. The latter are far more handsome, but it was about the damask, eglantine and Provence roses that the poets have raved for centuries, for these are the plants that have the finest fragrance and flavor of all roses. None, of course, are perennials, for all of them are shrubs, but they are best grown in the perennial herb garden and therefore included here.

The damask and Provence roses are probably the most fragrant in the world and the basis for many perfumes. Both originally were single roses, but often come double, and it is suggested that the herb gardener get these old-fashioned varieties to ensure fragrance and flavor. Once established, both the damask and Provence roses (often called the French rose) are easy to maintain, for they are perfectly hardy over most of the country.

It is important to specify exactly what you need for roses in the herb garden, and as some catalogs are confusing it is well to detail the specifications:

Damask Rose (Rosa damascena). A form of it is the York and Lancaster rose, but avoid this. Some old catalog names are Rosa belgica and Rosa polyanthos, both now in- correct.

Provence Rose (Rosa gallica). Often called the French rose, and one of the sources of attar of roses. Eglantine (Rosa eglanteria). This is often called the sweet- brier in this country.

These three are the roses for the herb garden. In the first two the petals are used, both fresh and dried for flavoring all sorts of dishes and candies, whereas the eglantine is grown mostly for its "hips." These are the fleshy, swollen flower base that ultimately encloses the fruit. Modern research has shown that rose hips are rich in vitamins.

Once established in the herb garden, these old-fashioned "species" roses (so called because they are not modern hybrids) arc far easier to grow than their showy-flowered prototypes. To them the herb gardener and discriminating cook will turn with delight and will echo the old herbalist who wrote in 1525, "Dry roses put to the nose to smell do comfort the brayne and the herte and quickeneth the spyryte."




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