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The robust herbs are the standby of the cook, for they do
not need to be, but often are, mixed with other herbs. The
outstanding robust herbs are horse-radish, dill, fennel, caraway,
winter and summer savory, mint, sage, the marjorams, cori-
ander, and anise. They enter into hundreds of recipes, and the
relative importance of them to the cook is a good indication of
how much of each the gardener should grow. A check of
many of the books mentioned and some others indicates that,
whether fine or robust, herbs may be arranged in something
like the following order as to their chief use in cookery:
CHIEF HERBS USED IN COOKERY
(Arranged in the order of their importance)
1.Parsley
2.Basil
3.Summer savory
4.Sweet marjoram
5.Chives
6.Mint |
7. Chervil
8.Thyme
9.Rosemary 10.Tarragon
11.Pot marjoram
12.Caraway |
13. Winter savory
14. Cumin
15. Fennel
16. Coriander
17. Anise
18. Dill |
Naturally there are many others, but their use has usually
been restricted to a few experts or specialists in herb cookery.
Some will be found among the annuals in Chapter Two, or the
Perennials in Chapter Three, but some will perhaps be looked
for in vain. This book contains only 25 annuals and biennials
and 40 perennials, practically all of them of culinary value.
To the herb gardener these 65 different plants will provide
endless herb combinations. Not the least of the pleasures of
herb gardening is being able to go outdoors and collect fresh
material whenever it is ready for harvesting. And to the
beginner it is of some advantage to know what not to grow.
While this book shuns recipes, a useful summary of hun-
dreds of them ought to tell the amateur what the best chefs
have demanded in the dishes that are most common. A check
of a good many sources reveals many conflicting recommenda-
tions-especially among those favoring French, Italian, Spanish,
American and, Heaven help us, even English cooking, which
is almost the worst in the world. But in spite of much conflict
of ideas, there is a surprising agreement on some fundamentals,
and they are epitomized here for those who wish to start with
the basic rules of herb cookery.
A Selection of Herbs to Use in Various Dishes
MEATS
Poultry: Sage, sweet marjoram, summer savory, thyme, and tarragon.
Veal: Same as poultry with possible addition of rosemary.
Pork: Rosemary, anise, sage, chives, basil, and sweet marjoram.
Beef: Summer savory, thyme, coriander, sweet marjoram, and basil.
Lamb: Garlic, rosemary, dill, mint, and summer savory.
Fish: Parsley and chives (as garnish); also fennel, chervil, basil, thyme,
saffron, and sweet marjoram.
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